Hello fellas. The swell of the last few days is over today and it is a new one coming today. The waves are fun(3-5 ft) lefts and rights, but it is lot of water in the high tide and sometime the waves break to close to the beach. Check it out.
In the outside the waves were soft, easy to take and rideable. Nice for surf in funboards.
This surfer was using his single fin surfboard and he was taking a lot of waves, look how he is playing in this wave.
This peak was calm for about twenty minutes and after three to five waves like this one were breaking, rolling until the beach. Not to many people were surfing in this moment.
Here is Josh following one of those waves until the beach. Check it out.
After a cut, the waves give one more chance to Josh to keep going and he did.....in this point, this wave is breaking less than one feet shallow.
Even this small wave make a barrel in this beach. It was worth the risk Josh.
We talk about risk!!!!! Check this surfer making a flouter close to the beach.
Here he is crossing the line of no return. It was too late to regret. He just trust in his experian and wait.
Ho Ho! ???
His experiense in surf save his board and his boddy. Be care full bro.
Hey amigos. We always say how good are the waves, the fishing, the people here, but until you come and see all the back ground you can believe how beautiful it is. Everywhere I see is pretty. Have a good day. It is a party in Nacho House, everybody is invited. See you over there.